Nepal – Wandering Welsh Girl

The Annapurna Circuit is one of the world’s most legendary treks, offering a jaw-dropping journey through Nepal’s diverse landscapes—from subtropical forests and terraced farmland to alpine valleys and arid high mountain plateaus. Known for its incredible views, cultural encounters, and the thrill of crossing Thorong La Pass (5,416m / 17,769 ft), the Annapurna Circuit is both a physical challenge and a life-changing experience. Hiking the Annapurna Circuit is one of the best things we've ever done and we want everyone to enjoy it as much as we did. So, to give you a help in hand, here’s everything you need to know for planning a successful Annapurna Circuit trek. Trek Overview Region: Annapurna Conservation Area, Nepal Distance: ~160–230 km (100–145 miles), depending on your start/end points Duration: 12 to 21 days Highest Point: Thorong La Pass (5,416 m / 17,769 ft) Difficulty: Moderate to challenging Permits: TIMS card and ACAP permit required Best Time to Go: Spring: March to May (rhododendrons bloom) Autumn: September to November (clear skies, stable weather) Itinerary at a Glance The classic Annapurna Circuit used to be 21+ days long, but with road access on both sides of the circuit, many trekkers now customize it based on time and interest. When Nick and I completed this trek we took 24 days but bolted on a side hike to the Ice Lake, a side hike to Dhaulagiri Glacier and a 3 day trek to Annapurna Base Camp (including Poon Hill). We also took an acclimatisation day in Manang. We're average paced hikers and because we had the flexibility, some days we just did half a day if we liked the look of a particular teahouse. Here’s a popular 15-day itinerary (which can be extended or shortened): Day-by-Day Outline DayRouteAltitude (m)1Besisahar to Dharapani1,9602Dharapani to Chame2,7103Chame to Pisang3,3004Pisang to Manang3,5405Acclimatization in Manang3,5406Manang to Yak Kharka4,0507Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi4,4508Thorong Phedi to Muktinath (via Thorong La Pass)5,416 → 3,7609Muktinath to Marpha2,67010Marpha to Tatopani (via Jeep/Bus)1,19011Tatopani to Ghorepani2,86012Ghorepani to Poon Hill & Tadapani3,21013Tadapani to Ghandruk2,00014Ghandruk to Nayapul, then Pokhara1,070 Note: You can skip some sections via local jeeps or buses, especially lower elevation road-accessible areas. The Ice Lake Permits Required You must get two permits before entering the Annapurna region: ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit) – NPR 3,000 (~$23 USD) TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) – NPR 2,000 (~$15 USD) Both can be obtained in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Bring passport photos and your passport in order to get the permits. Accommodation & Food Teahouse trekking is the norm on the Annapurna Circuit. These are simple lodges offering: Shared or private rooms (basic bed, blanket) Communal dining area with food menu Electricity (often for a small fee) Wi-Fi (limited and slow in high altitude often for a fee at altitude) These can be booked in advance or you can take a gamble and just turn up - this works best if you arrive early in the day! Our accommodation at Thorong Phedi Food is simple but satisfying: Dal Bhat (lentils, rice, veg) – the staple. You'll come to love the phrase "Dal Bhat Power 24 hour!" Momos (dumplings) Noodles, pasta, rice, soups Banana porridge Hot drinks: ginger tea, masala chai, lemon honey Momos Banana porridge Cost per day (estimates): Room: $2–$6 USD Meals: $15–$25 USD total Total daily budget: $20–$30 USD During our hike many of the teahouses would offer free accommodation in return for buying dinner and breakfast. What to Pack Essentials Backpack (40–60L) + daypack Sleeping bag (rated to -10°C / 14°F) Down jacket/Rain jacket/Poncho Thermal base layers Fleece and waterproof shell Trekking pants + shorts Hat, gloves, sunglasses Trekking boots + camp shoes Water bottles + purification tablets, or a filtering water bottle Headlamp + extra batteries Basic toiletries & quick-dry towel Sunscreen Cash (ATMs not available after Chame) First aid kit Recommended Extras Trekking poles - poles were a life saver for our knees on the descents Snacks (nuts, bars, dried fruits) - most food can be bought along the way but good to have emergency snacks Altitude medication (Diamox) - we took this one night but found the side affects too harsh so opted to go without Power banks Toilet paper Camera For a complete Annapurna packing list see this post Acclimatization & Altitude Sickness Altitude sickness is one of the biggest risks on this trek. Follow these tips to avoid getting sick: Go slow: Gain no more than 500m/day above 3,000m Rest: Take acclimatization days in Manang or before Thorong La Stay hydrated: Noodle soup is a good lunch option as it hydrates you as well getting fuel onboard Know the symptoms: headache, dizziness, nausea, trouble sleeping Don't ignore signs – descend if symptoms worsen Guided vs. Independent Trekking Previously it was possible to trek independently on the Annapurna Circuit. In 2023, Nepal implemented new rules requiring solo foreign trekkers to hire a licensed guide for all national park areas, including Annapurna. However, enforcement varies. Check local rules before departure. Guided treks offer safety, cultural insight and make planning much easier. Guides cost ~$25–$35/day; porters ~$20/day. Connectivity & Money Wi-Fi: Available in many teahouses but unreliable above Manang. SIM cards: Ncell or Nepal Telecom work sporadically. ATMs: Only in Besisahar, Chame (sometimes), and Jomsom. Cash: Bring enough Nepalese Rupees for the whole trek. Tips for a Great Trek Start slow: Start low and move slow. Don’t skip acclimatization days. Train beforehand: Cardio and leg strength help a lot. Start early each day: Weather typically worsens in the afternoon so try to check the forecast if you can to be prepared. Be respectful: Follow local customs and ask before photographing people. Don’t litter: Pack out all non-biodegradable waste. Carry extra snacks: Prices rise with altitude. Take your time: The journey is just as special as the destination. Highlights Not to Miss Thorong La Pass: The crown jewel, an exhilarating crossing at 5,416m. You'll need to cross this to complete the trek so check the weather and aim to cross on a good weather day. Manang: Great place to acclimatize and explore the ice lake which was one of our favourite days. Muktinath Temple: Sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Marpha: Known for apple orchards and charming stone houses. Poon Hill: Offers panoramic views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. Join the masses and head up for sunrise. Nick & I celebrating at Thorang La Pass Final Thoughts The Annapurna Circuit offers one of the most diverse and rewarding trekking experiences in the world. Whether you're chasing snow-capped peaks, soaking in hot springs, or sharing tea with a local family, every step on this circuit is unforgettable. Prepare well, trek responsibly, and enjoy one of Nepal’s greatest adventures. If you'd like to see some our hiking highlights, take a look at this video below. https://youtu.be/_uO0pnHoWNs?si=UxWEejZw9ydbdOpA